So hes tasked with many different things and having to juggle many different things. In 1994, Keller closed the deal and set about renovating the facility. On behalf of French President Nicolas Sarkozy, Chef Paul Bocuse presented Keller as a Chevalier of The French Legion of Honor in 2011 in recognition of his lifelong commitment to the traditions of French cuisine and his role in elevating cooking in America. Youll find a job. What we call a stage in an American restaurant, or a stagiaire in a French one, does that literally mean a stager? Organization as a dishwasher really meant that you had to set up a template for the servers to, you know, where to put their dishes. Were they going to come from France? As a dishwasher you do the same thing over and over and over and over again. Well offer a four-course menu and a five-course menu. So we started out with a menu that had up to seven or eight choices in each category. And of course then to finish the meal was the famous marquise au chocolat, the chocolate marquise with pistachio sauce, something that I made almost every night during my time at Taillevent. As you mentioned earlier, the 1980s and 90s were a fascinating time for great food in California. Over the next few years the restaurant earned numerous awards, including from the James Beard Foundation, gourmet magazines, the Mobil Guide (five stars), and the Michelin Guide (three stars). So between the two of them, they ignited what I believe we have, the resurgence of the farmer, the fisherman, the gardener and the forager. What did you have in mind? And then going to France and in a five-and-a-half hour period producing those two proteins and serving it to 24 international judges. We invite those from our veterans home here in Yountville down to experience a meal around a table in a familiar place with food that is nourishing in every way. We had never when I say we, Im talking about the community of chefs who have always aspired to be of that quality, not necessarily ever achieving those stars, but to be of that quality. It was poorly lit, and I had to arrive at work the next morning in the kitchen downstairs at 5:30 and they would show me what to do. Was it a restaurant that was breaking new ground? At The French Laundry, Keller applied everything he had learned from his years as a chef and his own previous ventures. And now Im left, because now I have to without his help or his guidance is butcher these other 11 rabbits. In 2003, Richard Capizzi became the first pastry chef (not to mention the youngest) to ever sweep the awards at the U.S. Thomas Keller: Its funny. I think that is really the essence of hospitality, is that you want to give people something that makes them happy, makes them feel good, nourishes them. And then of course the following summer I moved to France. And it was just one of those magical moments. No reality TV shows. Simple is hard. Cooking wasnt the question, but could I lead a team better? He was a man who would travel ten miles to save ten cents on a bar of margarine. But someone suggested I write them and I did. So we chose to stay in Paris because the phone call would have I mean to miss a phone call as being one of the first Michelin starred restaurants in America, being one of the first American chefs to receive potentially a Michelin star would have been too much of a I think of a moment in my life that Id want to give up. And I walked on the property. How do we respond to that? He liked that. But no, you went to work in the best restaurants. The restaurant is a perennial winner in the annual Restaurant Magazine list of the Top 50 Restaurants of the World. And I realized that my window wasnt covered with dust. Thomas Keller, who was named "America's Best Chef" in 2001 by TIME Magazine, among countless other accolades, has taught a generation of restaurateurs how to not only be like him, but to be even better. No. Thomas Keller: I studied philosophy actually. Chef and restaurateur Thomas Keller says his mother was his first mentor. We live by them day to day, not necessarily having written them down. Somebody will hire you. I wanted to make sure that I had somewhere to go to. So the lobster Bohemian came out the way you interpreted it at that time. Best Restaurant in the Americas (French Laundry), Best New Restaurant (Per Se), James Beard Foundation, 2005, Outstanding Restaurant (French Laundry), James Beard Foundation, 2006, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 3 Stars for The French Laundry, 2006 Current, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 1 Star for Bouchon, 2007 Current, Michelin Guide Bay Area, 1 Star for The Surf Club Restaurant, 2022 Current, Gayot Top 40 Restaurants in the US (French Laundry) 2004 2010, Gayot Top 40 Restaurants in the US (Per Se) 2010, Chevalier in the French Legion of Honor, presented by Chef Paul Bocuse on March 29, 2011, in NYC, Lifetime Achievement Award (French Laundry), This page was last edited on 4 March 2023, at 18:37. We all learned that we had to be aware of the demographics and not just what we wanted to do, but what those around us really wanted to eat. His father, a United States Marine, was stationed nearby at Camp Pendleton. In the late 1980s he opened Rakel in New York, but left for California a few years later. So on Thanksgiving day at Bouchon, thats what we do. Thomas Keller: Not really. The first half of the book was a book of stories, a book about his restaurant, his experience, his guests, his wife, his team, his chef. Was it a restaurant that was progressive and contemporary? And we were so proud. Our second challenge was in 2011. And I think thats what made the difference for me is not having to focus on the foundation of cooking, but be able to understand what made these restaurants great and understanding that Taillevent, which was probably the single most influential for me, a great restaurant. What an impact that must have had! He enjoyed the teamwork of a restaurant kitchen and resolved to become a professional cook. I had left Checkers. And yet you have risen to the highest of stature of culinary greatness. I guess you also needed to learn who your customers would be. And you know, it really goes back to when I was a young child and that was one of the meals my mother would cook would be Thanksgiving. Never let anybody tell you that you cant do something. But there is a lot of work being done certainly in the past 20, 25 years that has helped us as a profession to really have an impact. The rabbit screams. So when I went to see Bob Sutcliffe, I had a 300-page business plan and a bottle of olive oil. So Per Se was in the forefront of that first launch in New York. Thats what he wanted. In the American version he plays a cameo appearance as a restaurant patron (the part is played by one of Keller's mentors Guy Savoy in the French version, and Ferran Adri in the Spanish one). Paul Bocuse said it very well. Even though I hadnt spent a lot of time with my father growing up, in my early 20s I made a reconnection with him and certainly we rekindled our relationship and he was very supportive, even though he didnt understand what I did. Soon, he started taking up chef positions at various restaurants in Rhode Island, where he met his mentor and French Master Chef Roland Henin. He thought that would be the perfect kind of place for me, small, manageable, in a beautiful community here in Napa Valley. He actually sat with us, and his wife Sabine told me as we were leaving, she said, You know, Ive never seen my husband ever, ever sit down with anybody in this restaurant. He sat with us for about five minutes and chatted. You have lunch. The chef de partie is a chef who is responsible for a specific station. He wanted to have chicken, barbeque chicken. In 2013, Keller and Kwak introduced gluten-free pancake, waffle, brownie and pizza mixes. Our money ran out and I left and went to work at Caf du Parc, and the poor guys had to kind of lick their wounds and go back to being flight attendants. Theres bronze, silver and gold. I became the chef de cuisine of La Reserve, which is on 49th Street. Keller was full of new ideas he was eager to implement, but he and the owner did not agree, and Keller moved to a smaller restaurant, Raphael, which he found far more congenial. This is perhaps one of chef Keller's most famous dishes, a sabayon of pearl tapioca, beau soleil oysters and white sturgeon caviar. And for some reason he said, Okay, Thomas. Its really, thats where I learned about the idea of being a team as it relates to a sports franchise. No one told you those things. Pastry Competition. Thomas Keller: It was a junior college. When the hotel was sold, Keller clashed with the new owners and found himself again at liberty. And it was my expectations that got in the way of my experience. [21][22] In an interview with Vogue Man Arabia he described the BLT as "the perfect sandwich". The highest priority for us is that we are able to reach our own expectations. Thomas Keller: No, not really. Thomas Keller: I learned that I needed to be a lot more responsible to the amount of money I spent on my products and how to use them. So that was immediate critical feedback. We were very honored. She would spend it seems like days preparing Thanksgiving dinner. So you know, I did different things in different kitchens, because each chef needed a stagiaire in a different way. If you kept after it year after year after year, that dish evolved into something else. [6], Following the split with his partner at Rakel, Keller took various consultant and chef positions in New York and Los Angeles. Thats just what you do. And it was one of those things that you try. All of them loved the idea but turned me down. It was a new restaurant with a chef named Pierre Latuberne and Pierres wife, Anne-Marie. It changed, whatever the seasons brought, whatever the vegetables were. He told me. Thomas Keller: One of our commitments is to make sure that we are consistent. We had Johnson and Wales. And that was my room. So when I got there, I had a good foundation of technique, a good understanding of classic cuisine, certainly the understanding of the vocabulary in a French kitchen. I was working as a young cook in a private club in Narragansett, Rhode Island called the Dunes Club. It was in the era of Chez Panisse, you know. Thomas Keller is a man who needs no introduction. So I was a little further ahead than some of the other stagiaires that were there who were much younger than I, who were more worried about how to make a veal stock or how to turn a vegetable or different things that are basic that I had already learned. Thomas Keller: Mentor is its interesting because, again, these things have happened in my life kind of by coincidence or by some divine plan. So, for example, meats or fish or vegetables or garde manger which is cold preparation, or pastry. Serge was my only investor (in Rakel) so his life was impacted by the failure of Rakel. I dont know, whatever. The owner, Serge Raoul, became a lifelong friend. It was about the engagement with others. We have to give them training. Thomas Kellerdrew closer to the realization ofa longtime dream when hisTeam USA won the silver medal atthe 2015 Bocuse dOr competition in Lyon, France. I remember him watching you know, you would have the Graham Kerr series. In 2006, the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group continued to expand, adding the family-style restaurant Ad Hoc in Yountville, as well as outposts of Bouchon Bakery in Las Vegas, and Bouchon Bakery & Caf in New York. A typical person who wants to be a chef might think, Im going to go study with a really good person in Chicago or New York, or even a really good person in Paris. Now our core values can be related to a lot of different people some of them defining the same way, others not necessarily but they understand them. He is the only American chef to have been awarded simultaneous three-star Michelin ratings for two different restaurants. Thomas Keller is the first American chef to receive consecutive three-star Michelin ratings for two restaurants. Of course you had your glass racks or specific racks. I didnt recognize it until much later in my career, but I realized it and I understand that was part of the foundation of why I became a good cook and ultimately was able to become a good chef. And kitchens are run in that way because its all command response. And three days later I packed my bag early in the morning and I snuck out the door and caught the train and went to Paris and ended up staying at a friends apartment for almost two years and literally knocking on peoples doors for a job. It was kind of this magical place, and I just felt an instant connection to it. He grew up in the Depression, was a Marine for 23 years of his life. So I want you to come to my restaurant with the attitude that youre going to have a great time because of the experience youre going to have with those that youre dining with. It was my generation that kind of missed that. Youve mentioned the value of consistency, but nothing says it like that. And he flew in from Paris with four other executives from Michelin and they had dinner at The French Laundry. Under Henin's study, Keller learned the fundamentals of classical French cooking. Jerry Della Femina moved down there, opened his offices. He has established a collection of restaurants that sets a new paradigm within the hospitality profession, including The French Laundry, in Napa Valley, and Per Se, in New York, among others. One of our primary jobs, one of our primary responsibilities is to hire the right people, make sure that the people that were hiring, those individuals, young men and women, are of the right attitude, of the right mindset, have the right skills to enter into our profession. Taking his most . Maybe it was a plan D as an olive oil purveyor. The following year, Michelin inspectors came to the West Coast and gave The French Laundry three stars as well. The new restaurant got off to a good start, but the stock market crash of 1987 cut deeply into their business. Which one do I want? They invited me up to meet them. Double boiler, single boiler? It was not very appetizing, but you already made the commitment to do it, right, so you had to follow through and you had to serve it and you had to take kind of the feedback, the critical feedback, and just say, Okay, yeah, I made a mistake. And really mistakes are such important building blocks for success. Even though I didnt have a father present, I had some great, great women that helped form and focus my childhood. You come back at 5:30. How Thomas Keller's Impact is Changing the Restaurant Industry Is that hierarchy something that you observed in France? We have to be that much more determined, that much more committed to what we do every day. Theyll pick up Bon Appetit magazine or Gourmet or Saveur or any of the magazines. At this time newspapers still had a social columnist. We would have been on a flight so we would have missed the phone call. With his first book, the chef of D.C. restaurant Kith and Kin takes readers through his childhood in the Bronx, where he learned to cook from his mother who ran her own catering company, to an. sous-chef. So, our morning sous-chef is responsible for really the beginning of the day and setting the tempo for the rest of the day, which means that he has to work with a lot of the commis, which are typically the youngest, of course the least skilled, the least experienced. It was a four-course menu that changed every day. Keller began his career as a professional cook at the Palm Beach Yacht Club in 1974. What is the chef cooking today? I was committed. I mean an extraordinary chef. We sat in their kitchen in their house next door. So you always had a bread and butter plate in one spot, a service plate in one spot. And it was a small kitchen. Thomas Keller: My parents were divorced when I was young. Sample. An executive chef would be somebody that would be in a position in a hotel for example, or where there are many different restaurants, and he would be the executive chef over all of the chef de cuisines from each different food and beverage outlet for example. Philip Tessier, who was a young chef, our sous-chef at French Laundry, formed a team and made the challenge. So Im in his restaurant the next day, because every morning after the competition he does a breakfast for the winners. Its that social engagement, that interaction around a dinner table that to me is the most important. In everything that we do, we have to understand that our expectations have to be of the highest. And I learned at that moment a profound respect for the ingredients that we have, a profound respect for those individuals who bring them to us, and how committed they are to what they do, and how committed I have to be to what Im doing to respect what they do. And I really have to thank those who nominated me: Daniel Boulud, Paul Bocuse, Jerome. I spent a little time in college. We changed every day. And he would always tell me he would save me a dollar on a basket of strawberries, or he would be able to get an extra couple quarts of milk. I had moved to a new community, didnt really know anything about the community, felt very uncomfortable again trying to find a home, trying to find a place I could really embrace and be the chef. I should have read that before. Expectations do get in the way. And thats where youre there supporting. And he said to me one day, he said, You know, Thomas, the reason cooks cook is really to nurture people. And at that moment that really resonated with me and I said, Wow, I want to become a chef.. Yet at that time, Bill Clinton was just inaugurated, became our president, and one of his goals was to fund the SBA and try to get small businesses to be thriving again. The story of The French Laundry for me is an incredible story, because everybody who was part of the process, who was part of the evolution, was part of that project, has impacted it in so many different ways. It changes your life of course. And then of course we had foie gras, poached foie gras, warm with turnips spring turnips peas, and a beautiful consomm of duck, rich but at the same time light, right. What gives you that idea? You know, jai-alai is a sport. So he called his son, who then called his best friend, Daniel Boulud, who called me, and said the three of us are going to form a foundation to support the competition, to support a U.S. team in competing in France. Or we could stay in Paris, maybe get a phone call, but miss the celebration in New York. What was school like for you? The second summer I decided to go to New York City to try my hand in Manhattan, and that was when I met Serge Raoul. As I grew older, I realized the benefit of a good education, and I continue to try to educate myself today. You prepare for lunch. I learned that doing things that other people do better is not necessarily good just because youre doing it in your own backyard or in your own house. Theyre working on the same preparation, the same compositions, the same dishes, the same recipes day in and day out for that entire year period. There was no real technique. Yeah. The latest restaurant, "ad hoc", opened in September 2006 in Yountville with a different fixed price comfort food dinner served family style every night. [4] Four years after his parents divorced, the family moved east and settled in Palm Beach, Florida. And of course that catapulted us to again be financially successful, which allowed us now to commit our resources in so many different ways. So at the time I was born he was stationed in Camp Pendleton, which is right near Oceanside in California. I learned six disciplines at the dishwasher which have, I think, become a foundation for my career, and I think for many people who aspire to have success in their careers. Thomas Keller: Well, we all learn that. Armed with his investors contributions, Keller secured a bank loan and a federal small business loan. And cheese, the cheese cart always comes by in France, and you have so many selections. And great restaurants have to be consistent. The kitchen was my comfort zone, and I was very successful in the kitchen, but outside of that I wasnt so much so. You made him a real last supper, didnt you? And Jean-Louis Palladin came to this country in the early 70s, opened his restaurant at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. And Jean-Louis was baffled because there were no farmers, fishermen, foragers or gardeners that really connected with chefs. Chef Thomas Keller is renowned for his culinary skills and high standards. His restaurant was La Pyramide in Valencin (Vienne), France. He loved food. I stopped to see him, say hello, see how he was doing. That truly defines our success. It was in watching his. And luxury to me is not having to make a choice, having somebody guide me through an experience thats going to result in something that is memorable. I became the chef of Raouls, which was, at the time an outpost in what became SoHo on Prince Street, and it was a classic, classic, French bistro in every way, and it was wonderful. I learned the importance of ritual, doing things at specific times of the day and having them leading up to those times, and being prepared for those times. The success has motivated me and propelled me forward. Tell us about the Thanksgiving dinner you do at Bouchon. So as a young boy, this tiger was in this massive well, I dont want to say penned-in cage. I wasnt doing anything. Kellers mother managed a restaurant in the area, and both Thomas and his older brother Joseph worked in the restaurant kitchen from an early age. And about midnight he finished about midnight and he came back to the kitchen and I was standing in the box in our little office in the kitchen, the chefs office, and I was cleaning, doing my nightly cleaning rituals. And again, a coincidence that Paul Bocuse was going to be in America that March or that April. And it was fascinating because without realizing it, it inspired you to prepare the recipe. The other one was off on his career. With Lena Kwak, the research and development chef of The French Laundry, Keller had developed Cup4Cup, a gluten-free flour. Thomas Keller: Michelin announced that they were going to come to America. And so you have a pastry chef who is responsible for the entire pastry station, right? Again I told him how proud we were of that, and that was our responsibility to make sure that we lived up to the reputation. Youre working in a restaurant and in France you work in a restaurant Monday through Friday and you work both services, lunch and dinner so you get to work at 9:00 in the morning. No. Why Do His Michelin Stars Make Him Unique?
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